What does aquarium cycle mean

You just have to wait. Make sure you keep an eye on the pH, as it will decrease over time. Nitrites and nitrates are acidic. Water change or add more baking soda as needed. Over the next few days pay attention to what is happening with the nitrites and nitrates, one of the two or both will go up. This is a good thing, and means you are back on track. To help with testing, view the tests outside in daylight, in the middle of the day.

It will allow you to better observe the actual color against the chart. Thanks Ian, I needed that pep talk! I really want to have Izzy and eventually her babies in the big tank so I can start enjoying them. I will keep testing and watching and let you know how it goes. I sincerely appreciate the information and advice you provide here. My 10 gallon tank is finally cycled!

Now all I have to do is a water change for the nitrates I did want to ask about transferring my fish from the 5 gallon tank to the 10 gallon one. I think you said one fish would be ok to keep the bacteria going, correct?

Even though her readings are zero ammonia and zero nitrites every day in her 5 gallon tank? Just want to make sure. And as I understand it, the amount of bacteria will adjust as I gradually add more fish, correct? Also, the 3 gallon that the babies are in. And it has never shown any nitrites or nitrates.

The PH is very bad. It worked very well to raise the PH in the empty 10 gallon tank. The 3 gallon tank has a small heater, but with no settings. It keeps it at about degrees. I would like to keep trying to cycle this tank to use to put new fish in for a week or two before putting in the big tank. A single fish, such as a betta, will easily keep the beneficial bacteria going. In which case you can acclimatize your fish the same way you would when you buy them from the store. Based on what you have told me, I would say the pH is more of an issue, going off how the cycle completed once you rectified the pH in your 10 gallon.

It seems plausible this tank is having the same issues with the pH of 6 and it will need to be raised in order to cycle. I read over your KH guide. I guess I should go ahead and order the test kit. Aquarium water generally becomes more acidic over time — even if you have not made any changes. Part of this is because nitrites and nitrates are acidic. Most people can stay on top of this with regular water changes, which are enough to balance the KH and pH.

I think I must have been unclear about a couple of things because of so many tanks and fish, sorry. She has been in a new 5 gallon tank since the babies were born 2 weeks ago. She has 0 ammonia and nitrites so far. So I wanted to make sure she would produce enough ammonia to keep the bacteria going. Could it be, cycled even though nitrates have never shown up? I guess I could skip putting Prime in for one day and see if the bacteria is still gone the next day. So you said before to go slow with baking soda when fish are in the tank.

Do you think it would be better to test the kh and use the thing you mentioned in that article if necessary? Absolutely, ignoring that platies are considered to be best kept in groups, a single platy will produce ammonia and the beneficial bacteria will balance out accordingly. If the tank is cycled, they will be fine in a tank that size. After all, in the wild, their home is much bigger than 10 gallons. As for when to add the mother, it all depends on the growth rate of the babies. Depending on conditions food etc, they can grow at different rates.

In an empty tank, baking soda is fine. Beginners can easily calculate how much they need, so as to not cause rapid raises that will shock their fish. Baking soda is a more trial and error as to how much you should add. But it still works! The ammonia always stayed at 1 or 2 when the mother was in it.

I think the low pH has something to do with it. Your larger tank was experiencing similar, when we first started troubleshooting, right? Even so, I am puzzled as to why you are not noticing a spike in ammonia. Unless you use a filter media that removes it, it should begin to increase. I think the first step is to increase the pH and then begin trouble shooting from there, adding ammonia manually like you did on your 10 gallon. Ha, yeah you lucked right into that group of platies!

Just be mindful that 6 platies is a high bioload for a 10 gallon. The filter is actually very small with carbon inside some mesh.

You should be able to catch your fry with your fish net. Oh, one more thing, sorry. Oh absolutely. And I probably will still be asking you questions when I do the 20 gallon one later on.

One thing I totally forgot to ask you, and probably important, is that a white cotton-like substance has appeared on the ornaments in the 10 gallon tank. Do you know what it is and if it will hurt my fish? This can result in all sort of oddities such as white cloudy water, gooey brown sludges and white slimes. Unfortunately, without paying attention to what triggered, these can be quite hard to identify the cause in hindsight.

Can you confirm it has appeared during cycling? Thank you. I had some new aquarium ornaments, so I rinsed those really well and put them in the 10 gallon instead of waiting for the filter to work on the ones I had bleached. I wanted to get the babies moved today. I did the test twice to be sure. So I really want to get them out and try to raise it. How long after putting baking soda in a tank would you have to wait to put a fish in it?

A pH of zero is pretty much hydrochloric acid. You can test this hourly, after two hours or just wait until the morning. So the 5 babies have been in the 10 gallon cycled tank since yesterday, and so far they seem happy. I did water changes till the nitrates went way down.

Others say monthly or at other intervals. Speaking of filters, the one in my 10 gallon has been there for over 2 months while cycling. I rinsed it in the aquarium water when I was changing it and as soon as I touched it, the white part just kind of stretched out in a long piece, kind of like cotton does when you pull it apart only wet and very easily stretched.

I actually had to push it back in to keep it in the filter. Is that normal? You will absolutely lose the beneficial bacteria when you swap out the filter. Especially if your tank relies on the foam in this filter for a biofilter. You can expect your tank to crash if not done correctly. The razor blade business model should not apply to aquariums. Locking yourself into buying disposable filters for a quick buck, at the cost of fish health and lives is disgusting.

My recommendation is a biomedia say ceramic rings and mechanical filtration combo sponge and if required, filter floss for clarity.

So if yours did, most of your beneficial bacteria will be hanging there instead of the wool stuff. In your filter, if you have no ceramic rings, then that cotton wool like stuff will hold a good amount of your bacteria. As for how long these last. Ceramic rings and good quality sponge can last years before needing to be replace.

A good sponge should be able to be cleaned with three squeezes in siphoned tank water. Purigen is chemical filtration, which is a which is separate from biological beneficial bacteria and mechanical sponge filtration. It also can absorb tannins. I have a personal dislike for the stuff.

There is a tendency to rely on purigen instead of good tank practices, which generally eliminates the need for it altogether. I see purigen as an emergency solution rather than an ongoing tank addition. Let me know if anything I have said needs clarification.

Of course, as usual I forgot to ask you something. What do you think of Purigen. Is that good to use in my filter instead of the spongy thing I mentioned? I just looked at both of these. Which would I use? My filter is your average hang-on-the back filter.

The package said it helps capture ammonia. So I should leave the old cottony filter there for about a month to spread the bacteria and add the rings and sponge, right? Then take the old one out after a month. Do you think I should look at buying a better filter that will house everything I need?

If so, what kind of filter would be best for my 10 gallon tank? It probably contains something like zeolite. I would only recommend the pre-filter sponge if there is no room inside the filter for mechanical filtration.

Loose is generally cheaper buy a drawstring filter media bag to house them but the end result is the same. The only difference is that with the loose, you can swap them out, half at a time say in two years, when they eventually deteriorate this way the bacteria in the old ceramic rings will colonize the new rings, without causing a causing a complete crash.

After two weeks, swap out the other half. For a HOB, aqua clear filters hit the sweet spot in price and ability to hold everything you need. If memory serves correctly, it comes with ceramic rings too. The easiest way in this case to colonize the new filter is to run both HOB at the same time for weeks, before removing the old one. I looked online and it looks like the aqua clear filter you mentioned does have ceramic rings, as well as carbon filter insert and foam insert.

You are saying to run the new filter and the old one at the same time for a few weeks, correct? Do you know how I can do that? Am I essentially cycling the tank again with the new filter? If you only have a single cutout, open the filter up and remove any places where beneficial bacteria could be such as the cotton filter and place it in the new filter on top of the ceramic rings.

Running the new filter now will have the same effect. Keep testing and keep prime on hand, just in case, you may experience an ammonia spike. As for how it works. In a new tank there is no bacteria.

When you cycle, you are not just waiting for two different types to appear, you are waiting for them to multiply. So to put it really simply, first there is 1 of the first bacteria.

Then there is 2. Then there is 4. And so on. Repeat for second type of bacteria. You already have an entire colony of both in your tank right now. It takes a fraction of the time to cycle with a tank with a pre-cycled filter. If you have a good local fish store, they may even sell pre-cycled sponge filters for this very reason. Is there a way to take it apart and submerge it?

But I know you mentioned the ceramic rings can last 2 years. Sorry, I could have been more clear here. Simply leave the whole filter, minus the bits mentioned, submerged in your tank. If and when it happens, you simply replace them with a better quality biomedia, one that will last much longer. Squeezing it out in tank water until the water runs clearish will unclog it. It should last more than 2 months. Again, if it does wear down, simply replace it with better quality stuff.

Carbon is the only part they have right. Carbon is a chemical media, it absorbs tannins and bad smells among other things. Or just some part of it? All good, I could have been clearer here. You want to submerge as much of the section that water flows through as possible. Depending on the design, this will vary as to how simple it is to do this.

The ideal however, is to run both at once. Just had a thought, when you say cutout, is the lid removable? If so, just remove the lid for the duration and add the second HOB.

It was 6. We were messing with the tanks, water changes, ornament changes, testing, etc, all afternoon and I was stressed, frustrated, and tired. Apparently I read 0 instead of 6. And if so, how much?

Once your tank is cycled, I recommend that prime only really be used in an emergency, such as an ammonia spike, outside of dechlorinating water. Prime hides the problem rather than solve it. Yes, the lid is removable. So having the entire top open is ok, right?

I guess I could always put some kind of net or screen over it. And you said to leave the old filter running for about 3 or 4 weeks, correct? For the short term, say cycling your second filter, removing your lid is the easiest way to go about it. If you really are concerned, or notice behavior that suggests jumping, cheese cloth or something similar is cheap and can act as a barrier. Leave the old filter cycling for 3 or 4 weeks alongside your new one to be safe.

Afterwards, remove the filter cartridge and sit it on top of your ceramic rings in the new filter. Safe sounds good to me. So I will do exactly as you suggest and run both filters for a few weeks.

How often would you test the water in a cycled tank with babies? How often to test your water? Once your tank has cycled, and you have your fish in.

I suggest testing every day, so you can see how chemicals such as nitrate and pH change across a week in your tank yours will be different to mine or anyone elses Once you have a good understanding of this, you can swap over to testing with your weekly water change.

And of course, if you think something is amiss outside of your testing routine then by all means, test! Oh, one more thing on the filters, monitor the flow. Two filters can produce much more current than one. When the babies were still in the 3 gallon, I was testing both tanks every day because I was worried about ammonia and niitrites harming them, and wanting to see if the 10 gallon was cycled. I did read something about how the filter current can sometimes be too strong.

I wanted to ask if I should cover the aquariums if they are exposed to bright sunlight. I read that sun can cause algae to grow, but my question is really about the fish. The babies are still doing well in the 10 gallon tank, as is the mother in her 3 gallon tank. I bought the AquaClear filter you suggested and will probably install it tomorrow along side the old one.

Your primary concern here is algae. An aquarium is an enclosed setting, and we want to control each variable. Direct sunlight adds an unknown to the equation. I installed the second filter today at the lower flow speed. I thought if both filters were at one end, the other end of the tank would be calmer for the babies. Also, since we have the 10 gallon cycled and things are going well, I wanted to ask about the 3 gallon again.

I threw my calendar away but I know it was late October when I started that tank. The readings every day are still 0 nitrites and 0 nitrates, ammonia around.

How can that be? The ammonia has at times been 2. Do you think I should put some quick start in it? I sure would like to get it cycled and stop having to dose it with Prime every day. This impacts how much oxygen will be in the tank, and since your tank is a little overstocked, this is important. You are going to have to remind me of the 3 gallon, does it have a filter? Is the pH at 7?

What is the temp like? Yes, it has a very small filter, and the temperature is about 77 or 78, it has a small heater too but not adjustable.

The PH was 7. It has sometimes been lower, but for the most part it has been good. Can you you do a water change and confirm your nitrates again? As I understand, your tapwater is 5 PPM, so some level of nitrates should be showing up.

I was sick for a few days. Nitrites at. Just wanted to let you know. I have my fingers crossed that this is the home stretch! One quick question. Do you dose with Prime the same way which would be 2 doses if there are only nitrites and no ammonia? Thank you Ian!!!! Yes we did a fishless cycle for the initial set up. It took about 4 weeks. I guess this is a process with a huge learning curve but I have got to get rid of that mildew smell!

Did you test your water parameters ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, pH with an aquarium test kit? This can often help narrow down the cause of problems, in this case the smell. My nitrites are at 2. Does that mean I have to start from step 1 again? Or do I keep dosing the half doses until the ammonia starts to rise again? Thank you so much! You want above 1 ppm in your tank so that the first beneficial bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrites doesnt starve. Just keep dosing with ammonia so that it reaches readable levels.

Every time it dips below 1 ppm add more. High, thanks for taking time to help I have been cycling my 40 G saltwater tank for over 3 weeks now with no luck.

Are you sure you are doing the tests right? I only ask because I have had seen three people now incorrectly administer their nitrite and nitrate tests. This was the reason their ammonia was dropping but they were not detecting nitrite or nitrate. Good work! It sounds like you are all over the testing, so we can narrow that down. Are your salinity levels in order? Hi, thanks for helping Salinity is , pH 8. Pink algae? The rate at which ammonia decreases is rarely linear.

I added about 8ppm of ammonia on day 1. On day 2 the ammonia was 4 ppm, and it remained 4 ppm on days 3 and 4 also. Its not going up or going down, its just stuck at 4ppm. I tested for ph, and it read 7. I tested for nitrites, which read about between 0 and. Also, for reference, I have a hang on back filter with a sponge and 1 bag of ceramic filter media.

I have an air stone and air pump and a fine layer of bigger grained sand. It does get pretty cold, which might be the problem, but any suggestions? Ideal temperature range is between degrees Fahrenheit outside of this, growth can slow or stop completely. The labels said to dispose of the chemicals in a chemical facility, but on online forums, people said they are just pouring it down their sinks and diluting it.

Is this safe? Do you have any ideas? These chemicals are commonly found in toothpaste, drain cleaner and even urine. If you were disposing of whole bottles of the stuff, yeah better to do it at a chemical facility. But if you are talking about the test tubes after testing, everyone I know washes it down the sink.

We recommend adding one or two fish at a time to allow the bacterial colonies to adapt to the new bioload. There are 3 compounds to be aware of: ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The ammonia-consuming bacteria release nitrite as part of their biological functioning, and another type of bacteria consume the nitrite, releasing nitrate.

This is sometimes referred to as the nitrogen cycle, although it really represents only a part of the cycle. Ammonia and nitrite are both toxic to fish at any concentration and should not be present in an established aquarium. Low levels of nitrate an important plant nutrient are safe and even beneficial in reef and planted aquariums, but higher concentrations can be deadly for aquatic animals.

While an aquarium is cycling, ammonia should spike at first as organics decompose and then decline as the bacteria develop to consume it. Nitrate should then build up, and will continue to increase in concentration until it is manually removed from the aquarium by changing the water.

Once both types of bacterial colonies the ammonia consumers and nitrite consumers develop, and are able to process ammonia and nitrite as they are produced, the biofilter is established and the tank is cycled. This means that even when organic matter is introduced, and then decomposes, ammonia should never show a reading because hungry bacteria consume it immediately.

The nitrogen cycle is often cited as a prerequisite to understanding aquarium cycling. Nitrogen atoms are passed from food to waste, and then from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. Plants consume nitrate, which is then eaten by animals, and the nitrogen atoms start the process over again. This takes place in natural ecosystems, but in most aquariums, the nitrogen cycle is completed by a human who introduces nitrogen to the system by feeding and removes it during a water change. Are water changes necessary during cycling?

Learn how to properly acclimate your fish to your aquarium using the drip method. All About Tropical Fish Tanks. Cultivating a Healthy Discus Community Tank.

Discus fish are a joy to keep in the home aquarium and a discus community tank is even better! Cultivating an Amazon Biotope Tank. If you are looking for a challenge, consider cultivating an Amazon biotope tank.

When and How to Upgrade to a Larger Tank. If you participate in the aquarium hobby for long enough, there may come a time when it becomes necessary to upgrade to a larger tank. Before you even begin to set up your freshwater fish tank you need to decide where to put it.

Keeping large species of freshwater fish in a community tank can be challenging but, with proper planning, you can be successful. Before you go out and buy a freshwater tank, think about these questions so you are fully prepared. Safety Tips for Freshwater Aquariums. Cultivating a freshwater aquarium can be an enjoyable experience but there are also a number of safety concerns to be aware of when keeping a fish tank.

What is a Biotope Tank? As a beginner in the aquarium hobby you are likely to have many questions. Moving can be a stressful process but moving your fish tank doesn't need to add to that stress. How to Select a Tank for a Freshwater Aquarium. If you want to have a thriving freshwater tank, you need to start by selecting the right tank. Diagnosing Problems with Aquarium Plants. Cultivating a thriving planted tank can be a challenge -- this article will help you diagnose the most common problems.

Fish to Avoid for Planted Freshwater Tanks. Cultivating a freshwater planted tank is hard work and the last thing you want is to have all of that hard work destroyed by adding the wrong fish to your tank. Aquatic Mosses for Freshwater Tanks. If you like the idea of a planted tank but aren't ready to take on the extra work load, start off small with some aquatic mosses. The Top 6 Species for the Planted Tank.

Some freshwater fish will eat their way through a planted tank in a matter of hours. Cultivating a thriving planted tank can be quite a challenge and if you do not follow the proper procedure, you may not be successful.

Introduction to Planted Aquariums. Maintaining a heavily planted tank may require more than special substrate -- you may also need to supplement your tank's supply of carbon dioxide. Freshwater Plant Article Database. Aquarium lighting systems come in all shapes and sizes - learn how to choose the right system for the tank size you have.

Understanding the Basics of Freshwater Aquarium Lighting. Selecting a lighting system for your aquarium can be a difficult task. Types of Freshwater Aquarium Lighting. Choosing the right lighting system for your freshwater tank is a very important decision. Understanding the Lighting Spectrum. The key to finding the perfect lighting for your freshwater aquarium is to understand the basics of the lighting spectrum. Finding the Right Balance with Aquarium Lighting.

Installing the proper aquarium lighting system is essential in maintaining a thriving tank environment. Properly Aerating Your Aquarium. Learn the basics of aeration and how to properly aerate your aquarium. Common Problems with Tank Filters. Having adequate filtration is the key to maintaining a healthy freshwater aquarium.

Using Carbon in a Freshwater Aquarium. Learn about the differing points of view and guidelines on using carbon in your aquarium. Learn about the different types of filters for your freshwater aquarium. Sponge filters are a great option for hospital and fry tanks but they can also be used as a source of supplemental filtration for community tanks.

Overview of Filter Media Types. Proper filtration is the key to keeping your freshwater aquarium healthy. How to Culture Infusoria for Baby Fish. The type of food you choose to feed your aquarium fish will have a major impact on their health. If plan to keep bottom feeders or algae eaters in your tank you may need to supplement their diet with algae wafers. The food you feed your freshwater fish will determine their health and vitality.

The Nutritional Needs of Freshwater Fish. The key to keeping your aquarium fish healthy is to offer them a well-balanced diet that meets their nutritional needs. Your plants are successfully consuming ammonia and nitrates and converting them into new leaves and roots.

Gradually add a few fish, feed them sparingly, and use the water test kit to ensure that ammonia and nitrites are at 0 ppm and nitrates are below 40 ppm. This technique for cycling has gained a lot of interest on the Internet, and it involves placing fish food or other source of ammonia in an empty aquarium to grow bacteria. Aquarium cycling requires a bit of effort and patience on your part, but trust us — the results are totally worth it.

By preparing a welcoming ecosystem for your new fish, you greatly minimize loss of life and make your aquarium maintenance routine easier. Shop Menu. What is the Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle? How to Cycle Your Aquarium There are several ways to cycle an aquarium, and some are easier than others. Based on our experiences of successfully running hundreds of fish tanks, here are the methods that have worked well for us: Fish-In Cycling This approach is the most common, used by both beginner and veteran fish keepers alike.

So, here are a few tips to help you get started on the right foot: When setting up your aquarium, only add a few fish at the start. Some people recommend 1 small fish for every 10 gallons of tank water. Look at your fish stocking list, and choose the hardiest, most durable species you plan on keeping.